From the glass to the plate Reframing the storytelling about the Madeira wine’s leaping into gastronomy

Main Article Content

António José Marques Silva

Abstract

Since a long time ago, the Madeira Island is known all around the planet for its wine, not only as drink but also as an ingredient of the famous sauce Madère. This paper is about how this beverage made the leap into the gastronomy during the 2nd half of the 18th century, in both sides of the British Atlantic. Cookbooks and other kinds of documents from this period are explored to collect evidence related to this issue. An ethnological fieldwork within the Madeira Wine Company completed the historical approach to understand the potential outcomes of this study in what concerns the storytelling making about this drinkable heritage and the self-perception of producers as guardians of a true living tradition.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Article Details

How to Cite
Silva, A. J. M. (2023). From the glass to the plate: Reframing the storytelling about the Madeira wine’s leaping into gastronomy. Herança, 6(2), 117–146. https://doi.org/10.52152/heranca.v6i2.668
Section
Articles

References

Abreu, C.; Gonçalves, A.; Jesus, A. et al. (2019). Madeira Wine Contributions for Madeira Island Sustainable Tourism. Journal of Spatial and Organizational Dynamics, VII (4), 339-350.

Alarte, V. (1712). Agricultura das vinhas: & tudo o que pertence a ellas atè perfeito recolhimento do vinho, e relação das suas virtudes, e da cepa, vides, folhas, e borras. Na Officina Real Deslandesiana.

Aragão, A. (1981). A Madeira vista por estrangeiros 1455 – 1700. Secretaria Regional da Educação e Cultura.

Azevedo, A. R. de (1873). As saudades da terra. Typographia Funchalense.

Barrow, J. (1806). A Voyage to Cochinchina, in the Years 1792 and 1793: Containing a General View of the Valuable Productions and the […]. Printed for T. Cadell and W. Davies in the Strand.

Beck, U., & Cronin, C. (2006). The Cosmopolitan Vision. Polity Press.

Bickham, T. (2008). Eating the Empire: Intersections of Food, Cookery and Imperialism in Eighteenth-Century Britain. Past & Present, 198 (Feb.), 71-109.

Bluteau, R. (1721). Vocabulario Portuguez & Latino […], vol. 8. Officina de Pascoal da Sylva.

Boinette, A. (1882). Le Portugal, histoire, géographie, commerce, agriculture: le Brésil. Contant-Laguerre, Éditeurs.

Bortolotto, C. (2012). Nouveaux acteurs du patrimoine, nouvelles postures anthropologiques. À propos de Ethnologues et passeurs de mémoires. Civilisations, 61(1), 139-146.

Bortolotto, C. (2017). Como “comerse” un patrimonio: construir bienes imateriales agroalimentarios entre directivas técnicas y empresariado patrimonial. Revista Andaluza de Antropología, 12,144-166.

Bowdich, T. E. (1826). Excursions dans les Isles de Madère et de Porto-Santo: faites dans l'automne de 1823, pendant son troisième voyage en Afrique, vol. 1. Chez F. G. Levrault.

Brazão, J. (1998), "A vitivinicultura na Região Autónoma da Madeira. Sua evolução e situação actual". In II Jornadas Técnicas Vitivinícolas de Canárias (pp. 152-168). Servicio Técnico de Desarrollo Rural e Pesquero.

Busch, J. (1987). Second Time Around: A Look at Bottle Reuse. Historical Archaeology, 21(1), 67-80

Câmara, B. (2002). A Economia da Madeira (1850-1914). Imprensa das Ciências Sociais.

Câmara, P. P. da (1841). Breve Notícia sobre a ilha da Madeira […]. Typographia da A. das Belas Artes.

Ching, M. (2016). The Flow of Turtle Soup from the Caribbean via Europe to Canton, and Its Modern American Fate, Gastronomica. The Journal of Critical Food Studies, 16(1), 79–89.

Ciarcia, G. (2011). Introduction. In G. Ciarcia (Dir.), Ethnologues et passeurs de mémoires (pp. 7-30). Éditions Karthala – Maison des Sciences de l’Homme de Montpellier.

Clarkson, J. (2010). Soup. A global history. Reaktion Books.

Cossart, N. (1984). Madeira. The island vineyard. Christie’s Wines Publications.

Crespan, M., Cabello, F., Giannetto, S. et al. (2006). Malvasia delle Lipari, Malvasia di Sardegna, Greco di Gerace, Malvasia de Sitges and Malvasia dubrovačka - synonyms of an old and famous grape cultivar. Vitis: Journal of Grapevine Research, 45(2), 69-73.

Croft, J. (1788). A treatise on the wines of Portugal. Printed by A., Ward, for J. Todd.

Derbyshire, (1999). White wine that waited 300 years to be uncorked. Daily Mail, December 10, 11.

Dumas, A. (1873). Grand dictionnaire de cuisine. Alphonse-Lemaire Éditeur.

Dungworth, D. (2012). Three and a half centuries of bottle manufacture. Industrial Archaeology Review, 34 (1), 37–50.

Enjalbert, H. (1953a). Comment naissent les grands crus : Bordeaux, Porto, Cognac (Première partie), Annales. Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations, 8 (3), 315-328.

Enjalbert, H. (1953b). Comment naissent les grands crus : Bordeaux, Porto, Cognac (Seconde partie), Annales. Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations, 8 (4), 457-474.

Escoffier, A. (1903). Le guide culinaire : aide-mémoire de cuisine pratique / par A. Escoffier ; avec la collab. de MM. Philéas Gilbert, E. Fétu, A. Suzanne... [et al.]. Au bureau de "l'Art culinaire".

Farey, J. (1787). The London Art of Cookery, and Housekeeper's Complete Assistant: […]. J. Scatcherd and J. Whitaker.

Flandrin, J.-L. (1996). Choix alimentaires et art culinaire. XVIe - XVIIIe siècle. In J.-L Flandrin, & M. Montanari (pp. 657-655). Histoire de l’alimentation. Fayard.

Forster, G. (1777). A Voyage Round the World: In His Britannic Majesty's Sloop, Resolution, Commanded by Capt. James Cook, during the Years 1772, 3, 4, and 5, vol. 1. B. White.

Foucault, M. (1984). L'usage des plaisirs. Gallimard.

Fumey, G., & Williot, J.-P. (2021). Histoire de l'alimentation. Que sais-je ?.

Glasse, H. (1747). The art of cookery, made plain and easy which far exceeds any thing of the kind ever yet published [...]. Printed for the author.

Glasse, H. (1751). The art of cookery, made plain and easy which far exceeds any thing of the kind ever yet published [...]. Printed for the author, 1751.

Glasse, H. (1760). The art of cookery, made plain and easy which far exceeds any thing of the kind ever yet published [...]. A. Millar, J. and R. Tonson, W. Strahan, P. Davey and B. Law.

Glasse, H. (1777). The art of cookery, made plain and easy which far exceeds any thing of the kind ever yet published [...]. L. Wangford.

Gregory, D. (1988). The Beneficent Usurpers: A History of the British in Madeira. Associated University Presses.

Gringoire, T., & Saulnier, L. (1923), Le Répertoire de la cuisine. Maison Allard.

Guichard, F. (1991). Vin de Madère : Alain Huetz de Lemps, Le vin de Madère. Revue géographique des Pyrénées et du Sud-Ouest. Sud-Ouest Européen, 62(1), 108-110.

Guimerá Ravina, A. (2004). Vinificación en los puertos atlánticos. Madeira a finales del siglo XVIII. In A. Vieira (Ed.), Actas do III Simpósio da Associação Internacional da História e Civilização da Vinha e do Vinho (pp. 69-82). Centro de Estudos de História do Atlântico.

Haff, H. (2011). The Founders of the American Cuisine. Seven Cookbook Authors with Historical Recipes. Mcfarland & Company, Publishers.

Hailman, J. R. (2009), Thomas Jefferson on Wine. University Press of Mississippi.

Hancock, D. (1998). Commerce and Conversation in the Eighteenth-Century Atlantic: The Invention of Madeira Wine. The Journal of Interdisciplinary History, 29(2/Autumn), 197-219.

Hancock, D. J. (2003). L'émergence d'une économie de réseau (1640-1815): Le vin de Madère. Annales. Histoire, Sciences Sociales, 58(3), 649-672.

Hancock, D. J. (2005), Self-organized complexity and the emergence of an Atlantic market economy, 1651-1815. The Case of Madeira. In P. A. Cochanis (Ed.), The Atlantic Economy During the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries: Organization, Operation, Practice, and Personnel, (pp. 30-71). University of South Carolina Press.

Hancock, D. J. (2009). Oceans of wine. Madeira and the emergence of the American trade and taste. Yale University Press.

Harbury, K. E. (2004). Colonial Virginia's Cooking Dynasty. University of South Carolina Press.

Hughes, T. M. (1845). The oceanflower: a poem : preceded by a historical and descriptive account of the island of Madeira. Longman, Brown, Green, and Longmans.

Hyman P., & Hyman, M. (1996). Imprimer la cuisine : les livres de cuisine en France entre le XVe et le XIXe siècle. In J.-L Flandrin, & M. Montanari (pp. 643-655). Histoire de l’alimentation. Fayard.

Jeffries, N., & Major, N. (2015), Mid 17th- and 19th-century English wine bottles with seals in London’s archaeological collections. Post-Medieval Archaeology, 49(1), 131–155.

Jullien, A. (1866). Topographie de tous les vignobles connus […]. Librairie d'agriculture et d'horticulture de Mme Ve Bouchard-Huzard.

Kirkby, D., Luckins, T., & Santich, B. (2007). Introduction: Of Turtles, Dining and the Importance of History in Food, Food in History. In D. Kirkby, & T. Luckins, (Eds.), Dining on Turtles. Food Feasts and Drinking in History (pp. 1-14). Palgrave Macmillan.

Labat, J.-B. (1722). Nouveau voyage aux isles de l'Amérique, contenant l'histoire naturelle de ces pays, l'origine, les moeurs, la [...], tome 1er. Chez Guillaume Cavelier fils.

Lehmann, G. (1999). Le livre de cuisine en Angleterre aux XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles : par qui, pour qui?. XVII-XVIII. Bulletin de la société d'études anglo-américaines des XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles, 48, 89-102.

Liddell, A. (2014). Madeira. The Mid-Atlantic Wine. Hurst & Company.

Lucio, S. (2019). Madère ou l’île façonnée par les rencontres (xve-xviiie siècle). Hypothèses, 22, 291-302. https://doi.org/10.3917/hyp.181.0291.

Lyall, A. (1827). Rambles in Madeira and in Portugal, in the early part of 1826. Print for C. & J. Rivington.

Mandelkern, I. (2013). The Politics of the Turtle Feast. Appendix, 1(4). http://theappendix.net/issues/2013/10/the-politics-ofthe-turtle-feast.

Marsal, G., Méndez, J. J., & Mateo, J. M. et al. (2019). Molecular characterization of Vitis vinifera L. local cultivars from volcanic areas (Canary Islands and Madeira) using SSR markers, OENO One, 53(4), 667-680. https://doi.org/10.20870/oeno-one.2019.53.4.2404.

McBride, D. (1793). General instructions for the choice of wines and spirituous liquors. Sold by J. Richardson, J. Debrett and T. Murray.

Mutch, A. (2016). Europe, the British Empire and the Madeira Trade: Catholicism, Commerce and the Gordon of Letterfourie Network c.1730–c.1800. Northern Scotland, 7(1), 21-42.

Newitt, M. D. D. (1999). Who was who in Madeira at the Time of the Second British Occupation in 1807. Portuguese Studies, 15, 70-80.

Parsons, J. J. 2000. Sea Turtles and Their Eggs. (chap. II. G.20). In K. F. Kiple, & K. C. Ornelas (Ed.), The Cambridge World History of Food. (pp. 567-573). Cambridge University Press.

Pereira E. C. N. (1939 [1989]). Ilhas de Zarco. Câmara Municipal do Funchal.

Pereira, L. Gonçalves (2020). Intervenção arqueológica preventiva. Projeto de reabilitação de edifício. Rua dos Ferreiros 128 a 132 (área de proteção da Igreja de São João Evangelista / Colégio dos Jesuítas, Funchal). Unpublished report, Direção Regional da Cultural.

Pinckney, H. (1984), A Colonial Plantation Cookbook: the Receipt Book of Harriott Pinckney Horry, 1770. University of South Carolina Press.

Pitta, N. C. de B. (1812). Account of the Island of Madeira. Longman.

Pope, P. E. (2004). The Newfoundland plantation in the seventeenth century. University of North Carolina Press.

Quellier, F. (2021). Histoire de l'alimentation: de la préhistoire à nos jours. Belin.

Raffald, E. (1769). The experienced English house-keeper, for the use and rafe of ladies, house-keepers, cooks, &c. wrote purely from practice [...]. Author edition.

Redding, C. (1836). A History and Description of Modern Wines. Whittaker & Company.

Rodrigues, C. I. D. da S. (2018). Caracterização das variedades de Vitis vinifera L. tradicionalmente cultivadas na Região Autónoma da Madeira. Mestrado thesis presented at the University of Porto.

Rodrigues, E. T. G. (2012). Os Cossart: Traços de uma Presença Inglesa na Madeira Oitocentista. Centro de Estudos de História do Atlântico.

Saint-Phalle, E. de (1886). Étude et observation théoriques et pratiques sur la viticulture et la vinification en Algérie. Ernest Leroux, éditeur.

Sandy, D. G. (1988). Madeira wine at home. Empresa do Bolhão.

Senkiv, M.; Schultheiß, J.; Tafel, M.; Reiss, M.; & Jedicke, E. (2022). Are Winegrowers Tourism Promoters?. Sustainability, 14 (13), 7899. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14137899.

Shackleford, A. (1767). The Modern Art of Cookery Improved; Or, Elegant, Cheap, and Easy Methods, of Preparing Most of the Dishes Now in Vogue [...]. J. Newberry; F. Newberry.

Shakespeare, W. (1887). Shakespeare's Works: King John. King Richard II. King Henry IV. King Henry V, vol. 4 Hist. 1. Walter Smith.

Shannon, R. (1805). A Practical Treatise on Brewing, Distilling, and Rectification: […]. R. Scholey.

Silva, A. J. M. da (2013). Un ingrédient du discours. Édilivre.

Silva, A. J. M. da. (2016). Diaita Nostra: Patrimoines alimentaires, identité et gouvernementalité en Méditerrannée. UNESCO Chair in Intangible Heritage and Traditional Know-How, University of Evora.

Silva, A. J. M. da (2018a). From the Mediterranean Diet to the Diaita: The Epistemic Making of a Food Label. International Journal of Cultural Property, 25(4), 573-595.

Silva, A. J. M. da (2018b). O brotar do jardim do Atlântico. Considerações de ordem económica, sociológica e antropológica acerca da aclimatação das plantas frutícolas e hortícolas na Madeira (séc. XV-XVIII). Islenha, 63, 5-36.

Silva, A. J. M. da (2022), Eating, drinking and travelling for fun. Backward to ‘Tourism and Gastronomy’ and forward to the Covidocene, EJTHR, 11(2), 159-170.

Silva, A. J. M. da (in press). Once Upon a Time: The Old Blandy’s Wine Lodge. Property Management and Business Strategies in Madeira (1811-1855). Herança - Revista De História, Património E Cultura.

Silva, A. J. M. da, & Santos, R. A. N. dos (2022). Rethinking touristification as a long-term process. The impact of tourism on the Madeiran cuisine (19th-21st centuries). Herança - Revista De História, Património E Cultura, 5(2). https://doi.org/10.29073/heranca.v5i2.600.

Silva, F. A. da, & Menezes, C. A. de (1922) Elucidário Madeirense, vol. 2. Tipografia Esperança.

Silva, J. M. A. (1995). A Madeira e a construção do mundo atlântico (século XV-XVII). Centro de Estudos de História do Atlântico.

Silva, J. V. A. da (1788). MEMORIA Sobre a cultura das Vinhas, e Sobre os Vinhos. In Memorias de Agricultura Premiadas pela Academia Real das Sciencias de Lisboa. Em 1787, e em 1788, tomo I (pp. 1-99) Lisboa. Na Officina da mesma Academia Real.

Simon, A. L. (1907). The history of the wine trade in England. Wyman & sons Ltd, vol. 2.

Simon, A. L., & Craig, E. (1933). Madeira. Wine, Cakes & Sauces. Constable & Co Ltd.

Sloane, H. (1707). A voyage to the islands Madera, Nieves, S. Cristopher and Jamaica with the natural history of the herbs and trees. Four-footed beasts, fishes, birds, insects, reptiles, & C of the last of those islands, vol. I, B. M.

Snodgrass, M. E. (2004). Encyclopedia of Kitchen History. Routledge.

Staunton, G. (1797). An Authentic Account of an Embassy from the King of Great Britain to the Emperor of China; […], Volume 1. W. Bulmer and Company.

Suremain, C.-E. de (2015). Fabric-acteurs, recherche, patrimoine : une relation sous haute tension. In C.-É. de Suremain, & J.-C. Galipaud (Dir.), Fabric-acteurs de patrimoine (pp. 5-17). L´Étrave/Institut de Recherche et Développement.

Suzanne, A. (1894), La cuisine anglaise et la pâtisserie: traité de l'alimentation en Angleterre au point de vue pratique, théorique, anecdotique et descriptif. L'Art culinaire / Librairie Française.

Taylor, F. W. (1840). The Flag-ship: Or, A Voyage Around the World in the United States Frigate Columbia [...]. D. Appleton & Company.

Teles, V. C. S. S. e (1788). Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas e manufactura do vinho. In Memorias de Agricultura Premiadas pela Academia Real das Sciencias de Lisboa. Em 1787, e em 1788, tomo II (pp. 275-471), Na Officina da mesma Academia Real.

Thevet, A. (1878). Les singularitez de la France antarctique. Nouvelle édition avec notes et commentaires par Paul Gaffarel. Maisonneuve & Cie, Libraires-éditeurs.

Thudichum, J. L. W., & Dupré, A. (1872). Treatise on the origin, nature, and varieties of wine; being a complete manual of viticulture and oenology. Macmillan and Cº.

Unwin, T. (1991). Wine and the vine. An Historical Geography of Viticulture and the Wine Trade. Routledge.

Vasconcellos, J. da C. L. H. de (1889). Os Vinhos da Madeira e seu Descredito pelas Estufas. Novo Methodo de Afinamento de Vinhos e Bases d’uma Associação. Typ. Esperança.

Vasconcelos, M. de S. A. e, (1835). Clamor dos Madeirenses. Imprensa Nacional.

Vieira, A. (1991). Breviário da vinha e do vinho na Madeira. Eurosigno Publicações.

Vieira, A. (1993). História do vinho Madeira. Documentos e Textos. Centro de Estudos da História do Atlântico.

Vieira, A. (2001). O Vinho Madeira. A Expressão Artístico-Literária. Margem, 12(Dezembro), 18-33.

Vieira, A. (2003). A Vinha e o Vinho na História da Madeira. Séculos XV a XX. Centro de Estudos da História do Atlântico.

Vieira, A. (2004). The Sugar Economy of Madeira and the Canaries 1450-1650. In S. B. Schwartz (Ed.), Tropical Babylons: Sugar and the Making of the Atlantic World, 1450-1680 (pp. 42-84). University of North Carolina Press.

Vieira, A. (2015). O vinho Madeira, a independência dos Estados Unidos da América e os presidentes. Centro de Estudos de História do Atlântico.

Vieira, A. (2016). “Vinho”. In APCA (Dir.), Aprender Madeira, APCA. http://aprenderamadeira.net/article/vinho.

Vieira, A. (2017a). Será o arquipélago da Madeira no século XV a primeira etapa da globalização?. Centro de Estudos de História do Atlântico.

Vieira, A. (2017b). “Estufas”. In APCA (Dir.), Aprender Madeira, APCA. http://aprenderamadeira.net/article/estufas.

Vizetelly, H. (1880). Facts About Port And Madeira: […]. Ward, Lock & Cº.

Wersinger-Taylor, G. (2018). L’invention de l’invention : archéologie ou idéologie ?. Cahiers « Mondes anciens », 11. https://doi.org/10.4000/mondesanciens.2157.

Wilson, C. A. (1991). Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age to the Nineteenth Century. Academy Chicago Publishers.

Zinelabidine, L. H., Cunha, J., Eiras-Dias, J. E. et al. (2015). Pedigree analysis of the Spanish grapevine cultivar 'Hebén'. VITIS - Journal of grapevine research, 54(special issue), 81-86.